Good morning all,

Simon’s Wine of the Week is Cramele Recas Orange Natural Wine

Like everything in the life, the wine world is subject to the vagaries of fashion. For a good while the great American wine critic Robert Parker bestrode the vinous world, handing out scores from his 100-point marking system, like a giant over-enthusiastic wine god. If he gave it over 95 points you could usually slap an extra £100 on the bottle straight away. Who cared if all the wine tasted like an oak tree slathered in vanilla, it’s got 100 points! Then the mid-nineties brought us the Garigistes; young, hip kids making tiny amounts of wine in run down sheds that sold for astronomical prices. The smaller the shed, the fewer bottles, the more people would pay for it. This led to the rise of the ‘icon’ wine – over-priced, over-extracted, and over here. And it isn’t at the top-end where trends rule. In the last twenty years we’ve seen the rise of Pinot Grigio, the explosion of New Zealand Sauvignon, and the sheer world-beating domination of Prosecco.

For the last few years, the trend in the wine world has been ‘Natural’. If you haven’t come across natural wines yet, then the definition is a little bit vague (simply because nobody can agree on what natural wines really are). At a very basic level the wine is produced from organic, biodynamic, or sustainable vineyards, is fermented with natural yeasts, has no intervention or additives during fermentation, is not filtered, and has little or no sulfites added. Basically, allowing the grape to grow and the wine to ferment as naturally as possible. This has annoyed a lot of people.

Part of the natural wine phenomenon is the rise of Orange Wine. Whilst it may seem like a new thing Orange Wine has been around for thousands of years. Current evidence suggest that this style of wine may have been one of the first wines ever produced, in Georgia, typically in earthenware jars. Essentially, Orange Wine is wine made from white grapes that have been left on the skins and seeds, which impart colour, flavour, and texture.

Now I will have to make a confession here, that I have had a somewhat ambivalent relationship to Natural Wine. Too often I’ve ordered something from a wine list which a Sommelier has raved on and on about, to be left bitterly disappointed and resentful when I raise it to my mouth and get the taste of cheap supermarket cider in my glass. If this was what the ancient Georgian’s drank then they can keep it. But occasionally I’ll come across an absolute gem that will blow my mind with new and interesting flavours and textures, things I’ve never discovered before in a wine.

Luckily, you can rely on us at Hills Prospect to wheedle out the ‘cider wine’ and only bring you the decent stuff. Which brings us to this week’s WOTW.

Cramele Recas Orange Wine is made in a Romanian winery that dates back to 1447. Now run by a Romanian-British wife and husband, they are bringing this formally state-owned winery back to its former glory.

Their Orange Wine is made with a melange of grapes which include Riesling, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscat. In the glass it’s a beautiful golden/orange colour that’s like a sunset after a summer rainfall. The nose is quite distinct. I got apricot, dried herbs, menthol, fermented apple, quince, and orange zest aromas. The palate is nicely textured, with a little drying tannin from the skin contact, then quite dense but super fresh flavours that included candied fruit, more dried herbs, syrup of tinned peaches and a spicy finish. It’s definitely full of new and interesting things.

For a food match this would be great with anything spicy or with grilled chicken or pork.

This wine would suit any establishment that is wanting to be at the forefront of what’s happening in the wine world. You don’t have to be in Shoreditch or Hackney to sell Orange Wine. The future’s bright, the future’s Orange.

Have a great week,

Simon